Post by Kanashimi on Jul 6, 2016 12:36:17 GMT -6
Advanced Two Sword
By: Peter the Quick
Drawings by PtQ
Bare Basics of Two Sword
1. Handmatching: the concept of fighting a mirrored opponent. Having two swords gives you
the advantage to always fight as thou you were handmatching. Use it, abuse it.
1.1 Handmatching limits the options your opponent has, thus making them more
predictable. Handmatching also simplifies the idea of inside and outside lanes of attack.
Handmatching helps make defending yourself much easier, thus making it easier for you to
defeat your opponent.
2. Hand Position
2.1 handmatched hand (or main hand) positioned in a standard denial guard, and is also
placed as the closest hand to your opponent. You want this hand high enough to be defend
your upper arm and protect against handmatched pocket stabs, but you also want this hand
low enough to protect your handmatched hip and up leg. many people have their
handmatched hand too high.
2.2 non handmatched hand (or off hand) positioned in a baiting guard (depending on
who i'm fighting it ranges from a flat baiting guard to a 45 degree baiting guard). the height of
your off hand is dependent on the distance between you and your opponent, the height of, and
the raw speed of your opponent. (if you don't know anything about your opponent it is better
to favor a safer hand position.)
3. Foot Position
3.1 handmatched foot forward, toe pointed directly at your opponent. just like in single
sword.
4. Center Line, never ever ever ever ever ever cross your centerline. Fight hand for hand, your
left hand vs their right hand, your right hand vs their left.
5. Inside and Outside lanes.
5.1 these are the lanes of attack, think of your two swords becoming a frame work of
defense that keeps all outside attacks from hitting your body. with that frame work you create
two lanes. the inside, which is inside your swords and where you body is, and the outside,
which is outside your swords and where you are more likely to suffer arm or leg hits as opposed
to body shots.
5.2 protect your inside, forcing your opponents outside, do this by keeping your guard
tight enough to your body that you give the illusion to your opponent that your body isn't a
viable option for assault. but keep your guard far enough out that you cut off easy arm and
wrist shots.
5.3 work stabs, stab feints and body fakes to control inside lanes.
5.4 when is it safe to go outside? It is safe to go outside when you know and
understand the possible consequences of going outside, and knowing how to counter the
possible returns and shots that arise when going outside.
6. Lead with your handmatched hand
6.1 This is one of the tougher concepts for most two sword fighters. Your offhand
(which is usually your right hand) is your defense, it is what keeps you alive, when it stays home
you stay alive. Lead with your main hand, paw with your main hand, your main hand will
almost always be the hand you want to start the fight with, and it is also almost always the kill
hand.
7. Stab protection
7.1 handmatching correctly will go a long way toward protecting you from stabs.
7.2 keep your off hand home, let it divert stabs, pushing them off your centerline.
Here is where I'm hoping to let the class open up into more of a discussion, and from here we
will get into the more advanced idea's of two sword fighting. If you guys are really advanced
then you should be able to join into the discussion of advanced ideas of two sword fighting.
Here are some points of discussion:
~What makes people advanced with two swords?
~Ambidexterity?
~Strengths vs. weaknesses of two swords
~How to fight right handed vs. left handed people.
~How to fight against other two sword fighters.
~How to fight against sword board.
~How to fight poles.
~How to fight single sword.
~Is it ever ok to cross?
~When can you go outside?
~What are some good leads?
Basic Single Sword Concepts
You will need to have a good understanding of these simple concepts to be able to get into the
heart and soul of advanced two sword concepts. Please refer back to these ideas and concepts
as the ideas and concepts of the two sword class unfolds.
1. Positioning
A. Grip = modified saber, turn wrist out. It is very important to have the correct grip. It makes learning
everything else so much easier.
B. Stance = Feet positioning, Keep knees bent at all times. Arm positioning is the most important but
will be covered by basic block strike.
There are two ways to stand
1. Sword foot forward, or On foot forward as some people call it
2. Off foot forward. Goofy footed as some people call it
C. Guard = Positioning of the sword
2. There are 4 major guards
A. Denial Guard. … Sword held straight up, tip slightly to opponent... Closing outside or inside off to
attacks by placing a heavy guard there
B. Bait Guard. … Sword held parallel to the ground and away from the body. This stance is used to bait
your opponents into predictable openers based on sword height from the ground.
C. Ranging Guard...Sword pointed at opponent held away from your body. This stance forces the opponent
to deal with sword before you can throw a normal opener ...also used to maneuver or position your
opponent by changing the angle at which your sword is pointed at him
D. Open Guard... Arm is relaxed and sword is pointed down This stance is used to draw a opponent in or
to close the distance, by appearing to be out of position
3. The 10 Shots = These are the shots we show people how to throw correctly. They are more to know
correct form and terminology when I am referring to a certain shot before any other training can begin.
Not all shots are created equal but they all have a time and a place to be used.
A. Five basic flat wraps = Outside Flat wrap, Rising wrap aka scoop shot, Shoulder wrap, Crossing Flat
wrap, Rising cross aka reverse scoop. These are the most basic of the wraps, pretty much a must learn
first before anything else. Practice these ALOT
B. The High cross = what most people throw wrong. Leaves allot open and is over used ... ala the flat
high cross is the proper name / form.
C. The Slot Shot = A good lead or a good repost after a block to the outside or inside from a medium
range...usually thrown for shoulder or high chest areas
D. Hacking / chopping shot = usually a shot thrown after a parry when in close, to maximize speed and
still keep a good guard.
E. Quick Stab = Usually at lower torso, one of the quickest attacks
F. Hook Stab = Just that, a stab that hooks in, making it harder to read and block
4. Blocking and Reposting
A. Don’t over-block
B. Turn the torso ... don’t reach with the hands when learning
C. Raise and lower center of gravity to block and riposte
D. Economics of motion = The less sword travel the better
5. Fakes
A. Feints = Using your sword to Draw/move your opponent or their sword out of position
B. Stutters = Using your footwork to Draw/move your opponent or their sword out of position
C. Body Fakes = Using your body to Draw/move your opponent or their sword out of position
D. Baiting = Using stance and positioning to draw an opponent into a predictable opener or series of
shots with a easy riposte
E. Reading = Using all your skills to guess/predict what the opponent will do next or what they will do if
presented with various shots or openings
Link to Source
By: Peter the Quick
Drawings by PtQ
Bare Basics of Two Sword
1. Handmatching: the concept of fighting a mirrored opponent. Having two swords gives you
the advantage to always fight as thou you were handmatching. Use it, abuse it.
1.1 Handmatching limits the options your opponent has, thus making them more
predictable. Handmatching also simplifies the idea of inside and outside lanes of attack.
Handmatching helps make defending yourself much easier, thus making it easier for you to
defeat your opponent.
2. Hand Position
2.1 handmatched hand (or main hand) positioned in a standard denial guard, and is also
placed as the closest hand to your opponent. You want this hand high enough to be defend
your upper arm and protect against handmatched pocket stabs, but you also want this hand
low enough to protect your handmatched hip and up leg. many people have their
handmatched hand too high.
2.2 non handmatched hand (or off hand) positioned in a baiting guard (depending on
who i'm fighting it ranges from a flat baiting guard to a 45 degree baiting guard). the height of
your off hand is dependent on the distance between you and your opponent, the height of, and
the raw speed of your opponent. (if you don't know anything about your opponent it is better
to favor a safer hand position.)
3. Foot Position
3.1 handmatched foot forward, toe pointed directly at your opponent. just like in single
sword.
4. Center Line, never ever ever ever ever ever cross your centerline. Fight hand for hand, your
left hand vs their right hand, your right hand vs their left.
5. Inside and Outside lanes.
5.1 these are the lanes of attack, think of your two swords becoming a frame work of
defense that keeps all outside attacks from hitting your body. with that frame work you create
two lanes. the inside, which is inside your swords and where you body is, and the outside,
which is outside your swords and where you are more likely to suffer arm or leg hits as opposed
to body shots.
5.2 protect your inside, forcing your opponents outside, do this by keeping your guard
tight enough to your body that you give the illusion to your opponent that your body isn't a
viable option for assault. but keep your guard far enough out that you cut off easy arm and
wrist shots.
5.3 work stabs, stab feints and body fakes to control inside lanes.
5.4 when is it safe to go outside? It is safe to go outside when you know and
understand the possible consequences of going outside, and knowing how to counter the
possible returns and shots that arise when going outside.
6. Lead with your handmatched hand
6.1 This is one of the tougher concepts for most two sword fighters. Your offhand
(which is usually your right hand) is your defense, it is what keeps you alive, when it stays home
you stay alive. Lead with your main hand, paw with your main hand, your main hand will
almost always be the hand you want to start the fight with, and it is also almost always the kill
hand.
7. Stab protection
7.1 handmatching correctly will go a long way toward protecting you from stabs.
7.2 keep your off hand home, let it divert stabs, pushing them off your centerline.
Here is where I'm hoping to let the class open up into more of a discussion, and from here we
will get into the more advanced idea's of two sword fighting. If you guys are really advanced
then you should be able to join into the discussion of advanced ideas of two sword fighting.
Here are some points of discussion:
~What makes people advanced with two swords?
~Ambidexterity?
~Strengths vs. weaknesses of two swords
~How to fight right handed vs. left handed people.
~How to fight against other two sword fighters.
~How to fight against sword board.
~How to fight poles.
~How to fight single sword.
~Is it ever ok to cross?
~When can you go outside?
~What are some good leads?
Basic Single Sword Concepts
You will need to have a good understanding of these simple concepts to be able to get into the
heart and soul of advanced two sword concepts. Please refer back to these ideas and concepts
as the ideas and concepts of the two sword class unfolds.
1. Positioning
A. Grip = modified saber, turn wrist out. It is very important to have the correct grip. It makes learning
everything else so much easier.
B. Stance = Feet positioning, Keep knees bent at all times. Arm positioning is the most important but
will be covered by basic block strike.
There are two ways to stand
1. Sword foot forward, or On foot forward as some people call it
2. Off foot forward. Goofy footed as some people call it
C. Guard = Positioning of the sword
2. There are 4 major guards
A. Denial Guard. … Sword held straight up, tip slightly to opponent... Closing outside or inside off to
attacks by placing a heavy guard there
B. Bait Guard. … Sword held parallel to the ground and away from the body. This stance is used to bait
your opponents into predictable openers based on sword height from the ground.
C. Ranging Guard...Sword pointed at opponent held away from your body. This stance forces the opponent
to deal with sword before you can throw a normal opener ...also used to maneuver or position your
opponent by changing the angle at which your sword is pointed at him
D. Open Guard... Arm is relaxed and sword is pointed down This stance is used to draw a opponent in or
to close the distance, by appearing to be out of position
3. The 10 Shots = These are the shots we show people how to throw correctly. They are more to know
correct form and terminology when I am referring to a certain shot before any other training can begin.
Not all shots are created equal but they all have a time and a place to be used.
A. Five basic flat wraps = Outside Flat wrap, Rising wrap aka scoop shot, Shoulder wrap, Crossing Flat
wrap, Rising cross aka reverse scoop. These are the most basic of the wraps, pretty much a must learn
first before anything else. Practice these ALOT
B. The High cross = what most people throw wrong. Leaves allot open and is over used ... ala the flat
high cross is the proper name / form.
C. The Slot Shot = A good lead or a good repost after a block to the outside or inside from a medium
range...usually thrown for shoulder or high chest areas
D. Hacking / chopping shot = usually a shot thrown after a parry when in close, to maximize speed and
still keep a good guard.
E. Quick Stab = Usually at lower torso, one of the quickest attacks
F. Hook Stab = Just that, a stab that hooks in, making it harder to read and block
4. Blocking and Reposting
A. Don’t over-block
B. Turn the torso ... don’t reach with the hands when learning
C. Raise and lower center of gravity to block and riposte
D. Economics of motion = The less sword travel the better
5. Fakes
A. Feints = Using your sword to Draw/move your opponent or their sword out of position
B. Stutters = Using your footwork to Draw/move your opponent or their sword out of position
C. Body Fakes = Using your body to Draw/move your opponent or their sword out of position
D. Baiting = Using stance and positioning to draw an opponent into a predictable opener or series of
shots with a easy riposte
E. Reading = Using all your skills to guess/predict what the opponent will do next or what they will do if
presented with various shots or openings
Link to Source